メンズは髪が伸びるのが早いため、何度も美容室に通う必要があります。しかし、できる限り費用を抑えたい、美容室に足を運ぶのが面倒くさいという要望があるのではないでしょうか。そこで役立つのがセルフカットです。正しい切り方を理解することができれば、カットの回数を減らしてかっこいいスタイルを維持することが可能になります。
本記事では、セルフでメンズカットする方法について詳しく解説していきます。ぜひ最後までご覧ください。
メンズセルフカットの切り方は3つのポイントを抑えるべき
セルフでメンズカットする場合、まずは3つのポイントを抑えてセルフカットに臨むべきです。仮に数センチ単位でカットできる技術を持っていたとしても、土台を整えておかなければ、仕上がりは失敗してしまうからです。
- セルフカット用の道具を揃える
- 髪の毛を部位ごとに分ける
- 少しずつ切る
この3つのポイントを抑えた上でカットに臨みましょう。詳しくみていきます。
セルフカット用の道具を揃える｜バリカン・すきばさみ・ハサミなど
メンズのセルフカットを正しく行うためには、道具を揃える必要があります。「ハサミなんてどれも同じ」と考える方は多いのですが、実際のところハサミによって仕上がりが大きく異なります。他の道具に関しても同じようにしっかりとした道具を使うことで仕上がりは変わります。
以下のような基準で適切な道具を選びましょう。
ハサミ：セルフカットする際には欠かせない道具となっています。まずはボリュームを抑えるすきばさみと、長さを調節するヘアカット用のハサミの2本を用意しましょう。
バリカン：ツーブロックや刈り上げを入れている方はバリカンを用意しておくことをオススメします。バリカンがないと、同じ長さでカットすることは難しいからです。
クシ：カットする際には髪を揃えるために必要なクシを準備しておきましょう。
ダッカール：髪を止めるクリップのような道具です。髪を分ける際に使うので、5本程度用意しておくと良いでしょう。
髪の毛を部位ごとに分ける
セルフカットする際、何も考えずにハサミを入れてしまう方がいらっしゃいます。しかし、そのカット方法は正しくありません。なぜなら、美容師によってブロッキングされている髪の層を壊してしまうからです。
美容師はトップ・サイド・バックといったように部位によって髪の毛をまとめています。そうすることで全体のシルエットが綺麗に仕上がるのです。セルフでメンズカットする場合には、髪の毛を部位ごとに分けてカットするようにしましょう。その際必要な道具でも紹介した「ダッカール」を使って髪を止めるのがオススメです。
少しずつ切る
セルフでメンズカットする場合、ざっくりと切ってしまう方がほとんどです。前髪を切ったことがある人の中には短くしすぎたという人が多いことでしょう。特に、メンズの髪は女性に比べて短いので、少し切りすぎただけで目立ちます。切りすぎるのを防ぐために少しずつ切ることは大切です。
具体的には1mm~5mm程度を意識して少しずつハサミを入れていきます。全然変わらないというくらいでも意外に切りすぎていることはあるので、注意しましょう。
【部位別】メンズセルフカットの方法
この投稿をInstagramで見る
ここでは、メンズセルフカットの方法を部位別に紹介します。
前髪の切り方
前髪をセルフカットするときに最も大切なことは、髪を一気に切らないことです。一気に切ってしまうと、全体的なバランスが崩れてしまうだけでなく、スタイリングがしづらくなってしまいます。まずは、髪をダッカールで取り分けて、部分別にカットできるように心がけましょう。
具体的には、前髪に属する部分を上から3つのブロックに分けます。その後、一番下の部分から髪を切っていくことで失敗しないカットをすることができます。
ハサミを横に持ってしまうと前髪がそろってしまいますので、カットの際はハサミを縦に入れるイメージがおすすめです。
ちなみに、クセ毛の方はカットする際にしっかりと髪を伸ばしてカットするようにしましょう。
トップの切り方
トップのカットは基本すきばさみで行います。通常のハサミでカットしてしまうと、トップだけ短くなってシルエットが汚くなってしまうためです。長さを変えずに全体的に量を減らしていくイメージですきバサミを入れていきます。
このとき、ハサミを入れる角度を一定にすることが大切。角度がずれるとボリュームがバラバラになったり、一部分だけ軽くなったりしてしまうので、注意しましょう。
サイドの切り方
サイドのカットに関しては、通常のハサミとすきばさみを組み合わせてカットしていきます。前髪と同じ要領でサイドの髪の毛をダッカールでとめて、束でカットできるようにします。少しずつサイドのボリュームを見つつカットしていくと失敗が少ないですよ。
また、ツーブロックを入れる場合は、トップの部分の毛をしっかりとダッカールで固定した後にバリカンでカットするようにしましょう。その際の指標として、サイドの耳の上のラインを基準にバリカンを入れていくのが良いです。人によってこのラインの誤差はありますが、一般的には左右同じようなラインが見つけられるはずです。
バック・襟足の切り方
バックや襟足を自分で切る場合にはしっかりと確認が必要です。可能であれば三面鏡を使ってカットする部分を直接見れる状態が良いですが、難しい場合にはクシでカットラインを決めてカットしていくのがオススメです。ラインを超えない限り大幅に切ってしまう失敗をなくせるでしょう。
バックをカットする際は通常のハサミを使って長さを切った後、すきばさみで適度に整えると綺麗に仕上がりますよ。
【髪型別】メンズセルフカットの方法
次に、髪型別のメンズセルフカットの方法を紹介します。
爽やかに決まる：ショート
この投稿をInstagramで見る
ショートでセルフカットする場合は、髪をダッカールでとめて、しっかりとブロッキングすることが大切です。具体的にはサイドからバックにかけて、耳より5cm程度上のラインを基準に髪を上げていきます。その後、下層の毛の長さをカット、上層の毛の長さをカットし、すきばさみで全体を軽くするのが正しいセルフカットの方法になります。
落ち着いた印象：ツーブロックマッシュ
この投稿をInstagramで見る
ツーブロックマッシュでセルフカットするには、前髪、サイド、バックが一直線になるような長さにするのがオススメです。まずは通常のハサミを使って髪を伸ばしながら基準に合わせてカットしていきます。この際、鏡でしっかりと長さを確認しながら切っていくのがコツです。特に、サイドとバックの繋がりがうまくいかないことが多いので、バックを切る際は特に注意深く確認しましょう。
全体のシルエットが整ったら、バリカンを使ってサイド、バックをカットしていきます。その際はサイドライン上の髪をダッカールでとめて、下層の毛をバリカンでカットしていきます。サイドのボリュームが気になる方は3~5mm程度、もっと短くしたい人は1~3mm程度にバリカンを設定し、刈っていきましょう。
個性的なスタイル：ウルフ
この投稿をInstagramで見る
ウルフは襟足とサイドを残した個性的なスタイルです。ウルフスタイルをセルフカットする場合は、トップと前髪を重点的に「長さ」をカットしていくイメージでシルエットを作っていきます。ウルフに限っては全体をすきばさみでボリュームダウンさせることなく、重めにしておいた方が綺麗に決まるでしょう。
前髪のカットは自分が希望する長さにカットするのが良いですが、困るのはトップの長さでしょう。結論、トップはサイドの毛先に揃えたとき、5cmほど短いくらいの長さにカットするのが良いです。このようにカットすることでウルフのシルエットが綺麗に仕上がります。
ワイルドにかっこいい：モヒカン
この投稿をInstagramで見る
ワイルドなモヒカンのセルフカットはサイド・バックをバリカンで、全体をショート〜ベリーショートベースでカットし、すきばさみで軽くするというのがオススメのカットとなります。この際、トップにかけて長さを長くしていくのがモヒカンスタイルのコツとなります。
カットの際は耳から8cm程度上のラインに合わせてダッカールでとめます。そのラインより上にある毛を長めに残して、それより下にある毛をバリカンでカット、もしくは短く切っていくというイメージです。
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